Serge de Oliveira
# Serge de Oliveira: Master of Natural Perfumery
## From Assistant to Artisan: A Perfumer's Journey
Serge de Oliveira's path to becoming a perfumer at Robertet represents the power of passion over pedigree. Unlike many in the industry, his journey began without traditional chemistry credentials. After studying cosmetics and pharmacy at a technical school, he trained for just one year at ISIPCA before starting as an assistant perfumer at IFF in 2002.
His career took shape through diverse experiences across the fragrance industry. From product development roles at L'Oréal and Dior to quality control at Chanel, each position deepened his understanding of scent. The turning point came when he joined Robertet as an assistant perfumer, where constant interaction with raw materials and fellow perfumers provided what he calls "the best training imaginable."
Appointed as a full perfumer at Robertet in 2013, de Oliveira has become synonymous with natural perfumery excellence. His philosophy centers on the belief that naturalness brings "facets, complexity, richness, and soul" to fragrance. Working from Robertet's Paris center since 2019, he creates both fine and functional fragrances while pushing the boundaries of what's possible with natural ingredients.
His signature style revolves around warm, sensual compositions built on rich woody foundations. Patchouli, sandalwood, and cashmeran form the backbone of many creations, while Turkish rose, geranium, and iris add floral complexity. This approach has earned him recognition for taming the multiple facets of natural materials, creating comfort and elegance without sacrificing the raw beauty of botanical ingredients.
## Notable Creations and Natural Innovation
De Oliveira's portfolio spans numerous niche brands, each showcasing his ability to craft distinctive natural compositions. His work includes acclaimed fragrances for 100Bon, Ormaie, Parfums de Rosine, and Bon Parfumeur. Notable creations like [Click Song](/perfume/une-nuit-nomade-click-song) for Une Nuit Nomade demonstrate his skill in balancing complex natural materials into harmonious wholes.
The fragrance Click Song exemplifies his artistic vision - a tribute to South African singer Miriam Makeba that opens with spicy rose and geranium before revealing rich patchouli and amber depths. The composition showcases his talent for creating fragrances that tell stories while maintaining excellent longevity and presence.
His approach to natural perfumery acknowledges both its challenges and rewards. Working with 100% natural ingredients requires longer maceration times and creative solutions for achieving effects typically created with synthetics. Yet de Oliveira embraces these constraints, using Robertet's extensive palette of natural materials and innovative isolates to push creative boundaries.
Beyond individual fragrances, de Oliveira contributes to the growing acceptance of natural perfumery. He believes natural fragrance represents the future while continuing to create conventional compositions. His work educates consumers about the unique characteristics of natural scents, from their complex evolution on skin to their distinctive longevity patterns. Through collaborations with brands like Sensatio Paris and Room 1015, he continues expanding the possibilities of botanical perfumery.
